LVMH’s luxury flagship label Dior has named Jonathan Anderson to take over the creative reins of the house’s women’s wear and haute couture divisions, ending Maria Grazia Chiuri’s eight-year tenure and unifying Dior’s disparate aesthetic under a single creative vision. Already appointed to lead Dior menswear in April, the 40-year-old Northern Irish designer will now serve as the creative director for the full scope of Dior’s fashion output – menswear, womenswear, and haute couture.
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With Anderson now helming both Dior’s menswear and womenswear, his appointment has opened a test for the luxury industry’s next phase.
From disparate to unified
Anderson has proved himself a master of brand reinvention over a decade at Loewe. By threading art, craft, and playfulness into ready-to-wear, he took a languishing Spanish heritage label and turned it into one of fashion’s most influential tastemakers.
“I have followed his career with great interest since he joined the LVMH group over 10 years ago,” Delphine Arnault, chairman and CEO of Christian Dior, said.
“I am convinced that he will bring a creative and modern vision to our house, inspired by the fabulous story of Monsieur Dior and the codes he created. He will be supported by our teams and our incredible Ateliers who will bring his creativity to life.”
Anderson’s Loewe legacy offers a preview of what might come at Dior. Over the past decade, he transformed the brand from a leather goods label into a cultural force, known for theatrical presentations, surreal accessories, and a deep investment in craftsmanship. Under his direction, Loewe’s annual revenue grew fivefold.
From disparate to unified
Anderson’s appointment ends a long-standing split in Dior’s identity.
Under Chiuri, Dior’s womenswear was politically charged and commercially successful, weaving feminist slogans into its runway shows and tapping into cultural zeitgeists through a soft, romantic lens. Yet Dior often felt like two brands: Chiuri’s cerebral, poetic vision for women’s wear and Kim Jones’ bolder, street-inflected take on menswear.
“His appointment feels essential for Dior which had become increasingly disparate with completely different looks, marketing and storytelling across the two collections,” Mathew Dixon, partner at DHR Global, told Inside Retail. “Anderson has the cultural and emotional intelligence to align and unite the collections with modernity and desirability.”
At Dior alone, Anderson will oversee 10 collections annually, including two haute couture shows. He’ll also maintain his namesake label JW Anderson. Add in two annual Uniqlo collaborations, and Anderson is slated to produce 18 collections a year, making him arguably the most prolific designer working today.
“The expectation on Anderson is bigger than anything we’ve seen in recent years,” Dixon added. “LVMH is investing in him to kick-start growth again, not just at Dior, but to reignite consumers’ interest in luxury fashion again, benefiting the likes of Givenchy and Loewe, and the industry as a whole.”
The long game
The timing is critical. The world’s largest luxury group reported a 5 per cent decline in its fashion and leather goods division for the first quarter of this year. While LVMH didn’t break out Dior’s standalone figures, the company’s CFO Cecile Cabanis said Dior’s performance was “slightly below” the division average.
LVMH’s investment in Anderson has been long in the making.
“His appointment at Dior feels very strategic from Bernard Arnault. Since his appointment at Loewe in 2013, Anderson was earmarked for either the Dior or Louis Vuitton job and LVMH’s investment into his own brand ensures his long-term commitment for the group,” Dixon said.
“Interestingly, the look Anderson built for Loewe could be transferred to his namesake brand. The teasers on Instagram, posted under #newbeginnings suggest a change of direction for JWA, with the cultural artisan aesthetic potentially being embedded into the brand.”
The ending of creative musical chairs
His appointment comes during what promises to be a landmark fashion season this autumn, with new creative directors debuting at Chanel, Gucci, Balenciaga, Versace, Bottega Veneta, and Jil Sander.
Anderson’s debut Dior Homme collection, scheduled for June 27 in Paris, will offer an initial glimpse of how he interprets the house’s codes. But the true test will come October 1, when he unveils his first womenswear collection amid the most competitive fashion month in years.