Footwear companies in New Zealand are being urged to be more transparent following a new report by the not-for-profit charity, Tearfund.

The organisation graded 25 top footwear companies representing more than 90 brands on their efforts to handle worker exploitation and the environmental impacts in their supply chains.

Tearfund’s report titled “Footwear: An Industry Laced with Exploitation” confirmed no footwear company can show they are paying a living wage, while few have a public commitment to working towards providing a living wage.

Tearfund advocacy specialist, Morgan Theakston, said a majority of fashion supply chain workers are not earning enough to meet their basic needs.

“The fashion industry’s chronically low wages trap workers and their families in a cycle of poverty. This creates desperation, which increases vulnerability to exploitative conditions, such as forced labour, trafficking and modern slavery.”

The footwear industry contributes to nearly 1.4 per cent of global greenhouse gas emissions while being responsible for “significant chemical pollution” to both air and waterways, she said. Also, a major portion of shoes produced by fast fashion brands are unsustainable and disposable.

The research concluded that 64 per cent of companies studied did not address the impacts their shoes have once they are sold.

“It seems shoe companies have barely begun adopting the best practices that we’ve come to expect in the apparel industry, but from our conversations with them, it’s clear that many are interested, capable and willing to take action.”

Out of 100, Adidas scored 58.30 per cent, while four companies – Nine West, Novo Shoes, Windsor Smith, and Ngahuia Group (Hannahs, Number 1 Shoes) – were tied for the lowest spot, scoring 0 per cent.