“Maybe this time.” Like Liza Minelli’s character in the musical Cabaret, many in the retail industry are wondering whether Victoria’s Secret will finally succeed in turning around its fortunes this time around. It’s no secret that the once-popular lingerie retailer has been trying, and failing, to rebrand itself as an inclusive brand for younger, trend-savvy consumers following some negative press in recent years. Now, it looks like the brand may have an ace up its sleeve.
“Maybe this time.”Like Liza Minelli’s character in the musical Cabaret, many in the retail industry are wondering whether Victoria’s Secret will finally succeed in turning around its fortunes this time around. It’s no secret that the once-popular lingerie retailer has been trying, and failing, to rebrand itself as an inclusive brand for younger, trend-savvy consumers following some negative press in recent years.Now, it looks like the brand may have an ace up its sleeve. This month, the company disclosed that Hillary Super — who was most recently the boss of Savage x Fenty and previously the global CEO of Anthropologie Group — will be replacing Martin Waters at the helm of Victoria Secret, effective September 9. The news has energised many in the retail industry, including investors. After her appointment was revealed on August 14, the company’s shares jumped 16 per cent, with an additional 10 per cent increase the day after. Victoria’s Secret stock was holding relatively steady as of the end of the day Tuesday, trading above the US$24 mark.However, despite her impressive record in the retail industry, some critics are still asking whether Super — or any executive for that matter — can truly revive Victoria’s Secret to its former top-tier status. Is she the superhero Victoria’s Secret has been looking for?Why have Victoria’s Secret past revival efforts flopped?The iconic retailer has taken a number of steps, from casting more size-inclusive model to relaunching its fashion show, to try to rebuild its image and profits in recent years. Despite these efforts, Victoria’s Secret reported a net loss of US$2.5 million for the first quarter, which set the company “off on the wrong foot”, according to retail analyst and GlobalData managing director Neil Saunders.“This should not come as any great surprise, as the reinvention plan the company is supposed to be delivering remains confused and muddled,” Saunders stated.“We believe that this comes down to management not being fully confident in all aspects of the plan and therefore trying to test and learn as it moves forward, when what is really needed are bolder, more decisive initiatives.” Melissa Minkow, director of retail strategy at CI&T, echoed Saunders’ thoughts, noting that, despite the brand’s strong product offering, Victoria’s Secret has dropped the ball with digital innovation.Minkow pointed to the brand’s virtual fitting tech that “is definitely something that’s needed, but pretty laborious for shoppers to use”.“Given how specific consumers’ preferences in this category tend to be, recommendations could be much more tailored to the individual,” she said.Is Super the right person for the role?Victoria’s Secret chair Donna James highlighted Super’s experience with the lingerie category as a key strength coming into the role. “We are confident that Hillary can leverage VS&Co’s industry-leading brands with significant category and international expansion opportunities to accelerate growth and create shareholder value,” James said in a public statement about the appointment.She also cited Super’s understanding of vertically integrated retail brands and “intuitive understanding of the consumer landscape, informed by customer insights”.Minkow agreed that Super appears to have what it takes to lead a turnaround at Victoria’s Secret.“Super has extensive retail experience, especially with women’s wear and lingerie, which will undoubtedly be useful. The fact that her most recent experience is at Savage x Fenty’s is a massive plus. Savage x Fenty’s reputation is for innovation and inclusivity in lingerie- both of which would be crucial for the trajectory of Victoria’s Secret,” she said.“Considering how troubled its [Victoria’s Secret] past is with inclusivity, I think it’s really important for customers to see that the brand really is committed to doing better there.”Given her market expertise at Savage x Fenty, Saunders predicted that Super will “push for further reinvention and refinement of the brand” at Victoria’s Secret. “This will include looking at marketing, ranges, customer targeting, and how stores present themselves. Her background means she will look at these things through the lens of the customer,” he stated.“There’s a lot of work ahead, but Victoria’s Secret is a sizeable business that can get back to growth and improved profitability. Investors will be hoping that having a female merchant leading the business will finally get the brand back on track.”