When Lululemon founder Chip Wilson body shamed larger sized women in 2013, declaring that some of the brand’s pants “don’t work for some women’s bodies”, little did he know that one day, the retailer would offer pieces from sizes 0 to 20. Yet earlier this month, CEO Calvin McDonald revealed during an earnings call that the brand planned to offer plus-size clothing and over the weekend, Lululemon revealed that four of its staple items will now be available in those sizes in Australia an
That's for the Professional!
Access locked news, reports, analysis and so much more.
n Australia and New Zealand. Meanwhile, a size 40G bra is on its way into the market.
“It’s about time activewear brands offer extended sizing. When you consider the average size of Australian women is 14-16, it only makes sense for brands to extend sizes. It’s all about a brand being inclusive and innovative,” Australian fashion industry expert, Jude Kingston told Inside Retail.
Some might suggest that the brand is a bit slow off the mark, especially as the plus-size fashion industry has been on the rise in recent years. According to market intelligence platform Pipecandy, the plus-size market is worth $24 billion this year in the US. However, when it comes to growth, the APAC region dominates, specifically China, where there are approximately 44 million plus-size women living in the country right now, given the size of the population.
But according to Audrey Milligan Reilly, senior vice president of women’s design at Lululemon, the brand has been hard at work for the past few years, using 3D programs to analyse different women’s bodies and understand the science of fit and fabric.
“We’re on a journey. Doing this type of work isn’t a case of flipping a switch,” she said. “We used 3D programs and we also did live fit sessions in motion with female forms from 0-20. We’re looking at every part of where every pocket sits, every seam detail.”
“I really believe we have to be a brand that accepts all. When I heard people say they couldn’t buy anything from Lululemon, it was like being punched in the heart.”
Indeed, other mainstream brands – particularly activewear – have struggled in the past to offer a plus-size range that properly fits customers. Designing a collection that suits a wide range of sizes is no easy task and requires investment. After all, how a piece fits on a size 4 is very different to a size 20, points out fashion marketing expert, Emma Sharley.
Four Lululemon pieces are available from 0-20 in Australia and New Zealand. Image: Supplied.
A change of view
However while Lululemon may have taken its time to launch extended sizing, it may actually change the consumers’ perception of the brand.
“Many activewear brands, or those with ill-fitting plus-size ranges, have been criticised for their lack of investment in proper research, development, and marketing to launch the ranges well. Some brands will consciously choose not to do it as part of their strategy, but for those that do, there’s an opportunity to reinvent the current standard in society and culture,” Sharley said.
“Assessing whether a move is genuine or not comes from consistent action over time. Lululemon has had its fair share of headlines. For their move towards inclusivity to be successful, it will come from a transparent, inclusive narrative, consistent community/cultural involvement, and continual investment in research. They are off to a good start.”
Lululemon’s launch into plus-size clothing comes at a time when diversity and inclusivity are key buzzwords for many brands, who are being forced to walk the talk and invest in under-served markets.
“I think their customers will applaud the brand for being inclusive, especially at a time where there is division across the globe. Here is a brand that is stepping up and out with such confidence and conviction that this is absolutely the way forward,” commented Kingston.
“I really see it positioning Lululemon as one of the most valuable brands in the activewear space. Now any size can feel and look amazing when they exercise.”
